Having problems with your club car? This is the place for asking advice and help on technical problems. Resident experts will be on hand to help you keep your car in tip top condition
I’ve got too many nearly or not working cars at the moment and not enough working ones. Not enough time!
So I'm not the only one, then! Our only 100% 'together' car at the moment is the Civic Type R (naturally!) and I am trying to keep the mileage down on it. Everything else needs an hour or three of tinkering to get back up to scratch.
On a more serious note, I have been considering buying one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305381006971 ... gJx5_D_BwE
It still involves disconnecting the hub from the strut or lower arm, but if it will actually separate the shaft from the CV joint without disconnecting the gearbox it could be worth a punt.
I can remember the Mk2 Astras and Cavaliers having a circlip that could be squeezed to remove the joint easily: sounds like a similar design was used by Ford, if your XR3 is anything to go by.
1995 220GSi Turbo: owned for 24 years
1994 216SLi
2000 25GTi
A copper or nylon faced hammer will help separate the CV joint from the driveshaft without causing damage.
If it doesn’t tap off, rotate the shaft a few degrees and try again - sometimes it’s a case of getting the circlip in the sweet spot so the joint just knocks off without too much of a battle.
I’ve got too many nearly or not working cars at the moment and not enough working ones. Not enough time!
So I'm not the only one, then! Our only 100% 'together' car at the moment is the Civic Type R (naturally!) and I am trying to keep the mileage down on it. Everything else needs an hour or three of tinkering to get back up to scratch.
On a more serious note, I have been considering buying one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305381006971 ... gJx5_D_BwE
It still involves disconnecting the hub from the strut or lower arm, but if it will actually separate the shaft from the CV joint without disconnecting the gearbox it could be worth a punt.
I can remember the Mk2 Astras and Cavaliers having a circlip that could be squeezed to remove the joint easily: sounds like a similar design was used by Ford, if your XR3 is anything to go by.
Right - just ordered one of those cv joint pullers. I’ll let you know if they are any good!
Civic type R’s are fantastic - which generation do you have?
I have 5 cars. Anything over 19% of them working is good enough for me!
MatthewL wrote: ↑Mon Jul 08, 2024 2:11 pm
Now have to find out why my front tyres go down very slowly. I’m wondering if they weren’t sealed in the tims or if the wheels are porous
I had serious rim leak issues on some budget Landsail tyres I had fitted to the front. I thought I had a phantom tyre letter-downer (or someone in the neighbourhood didn't want my Rover parked there). I'd inflate them on the day, then next morning they'd be flat. That white stuff they spread around the rim when fitting is a kind of grease I believe. Maybe not a seal as such. I think it stops the rubber bunching up on the rims, which would potentially cause an air gap to appear.
Solved now. I don't have Landsail tyres fitted any more!
Johnny 216GSi wrote: ↑Mon Jul 08, 2024 10:32 pm
That white stuff they spread around the rim when fitting is a kind of grease I believe. Maybe not a seal as such. I think it stops the rubber bunching up on the rims, which would potentially cause an air gap to appear.
Solved now. I don't have Landsail tyres fitted any more!
It's a soapy wax mixture that's used to allow the tyre bead to slip more easily over the rim to stop damage to the rubber and rim.
1991 Rover 200 1.6 GSi - Lynx Bronze
1980 Triumph Dolomite 1500 SE - Black
I’ve got too many nearly or not working cars at the moment and not enough working ones. Not enough time!
So I'm not the only one, then! Our only 100% 'together' car at the moment is the Civic Type R (naturally!) and I am trying to keep the mileage down on it. Everything else needs an hour or three of tinkering to get back up to scratch.
Civic type R’s are fantastic - which generation do you have?
It's the FN2. IMHO it is a modern classic, although I am sure many others will disagree
MatthewL wrote: ↑Mon Jul 08, 2024 2:11 pm
Now have to find out why my front tyres go down very slowly. I’m wondering if they weren’t sealed in the tims or if the wheels are porous
Very likely to be corrosion of the wheel on the bead area. Very common and easily solved by removal of the tyre and cleaning off the corrosion and repaint. Tyre fitting companies sometimes offer to use a sealant to help overcome the leakage, but it often doesn't work for long.
I’d love to get me wheels refurbed so presumably if done properly that might sort it. It’s currently on the list behind the sill repairs I’m on with. MOT due this month and it failed the screwdriver test on the “surface rust” on the driver side. I knew this was coming. Anyway - rot chopped out and repair panels made. I need to get sone time to weld them in now.
