Hi, i have just bought a 1998 Rover 400 series 420di Turbo, as mentioned above, with just 2 previous owners, and just 77,500 on the clock. I just MOTd her the other day, and in the process have found a fault or two id like to address. forgive the long post, but i have never owned a rover, and also have some questions as well as the faults

1) **FAULT** ABS fault light remains on after ingition. I have been advised this is likely a sensor, though a local garage tells me it could be a large sensor (he quotes 123.50 for these) or a small one (63.50), though he cant tell me which. is this just bull, or are these prices and facts right??

2) **ANNOYING** car mists up terrible on cold nights, even when car is at temp. i hear this is common, and i have had to buy a demister pad due to the excessive misting that doesnt go away, even with air con and fans on. any tricks of the trade from rover users??

3) the fuel filter (and air and oil filters for that matter) have not been replaced since 2001/2002 respectivly, though since that period the car has done just 20,000 miles, how often should they be replaced. (of note is that i dont have service history from 2003 on, but i have MOT history, and as for milage, the car saw 12,500 until 2003, then just 2,200 miles in 04, and in 05, 2,200, and 06, 3,000) so with such low usage, should i replace the filters and do a full service (something id do myself)

4) cambelt has not (as far as can be seen from limted SH) been changed, though other websites, and a garage reckon the milage before a change is 84,000-120,000, is this true (my car has just 77, 500 on the odometer atm)

5) what is the rim width for the rover wheels?? i know my tires are 185/65/14, though i cant use rims from Fords OR a Mazda for example due to differing rim widths (6J on a mazda), though someone told me i can use Honda, and some french cars like peugeot, as long as they are 185/14 and the right rim width, thus what is rim width for rover??

6) Fuel consumption - i have checked on this website, and found that it is about 26 mpg in town and 46mpg on m'ways, but is there any tricks to improve this, and achieve these figures or much better?? anything i can do, add or replace to get the optimum consumption??

At this point id love to point out that i have fallen for the Rover already. i have had experience of rovers from when i learned in my brother in laws Rover 220 diesel, and found it a dream to drive. i snapped at the chance to get a rover 420, with a big engine, and it has been well worth the insrance premium increase for such a nice, smooth, and great ride. i love this car!!

manixman wrote:2) **ANNOYING** car mists up terrible on cold nights, even when car is at temp. i hear this is common, and i have had to buy a demister pad due to the excessive misting that doesnt go away, even with air con and fans on. any tricks of the trade from rover users??

Double check the boot for leaks, especially around the lights.

manixman wrote:6) Fuel consumption - i have checked on this website, and found that it is about 26 mpg in town and 46mpg on m'ways, but is there any tricks to improve this, and achieve these figures or much better?? anything i can do, add or replace to get the optimum consumption??

Not sure which bit you were looking at, but the figures for your vehicle will not be up on the website. The website and club is aimed at the 200MK2 and 400MK1, which is the car before yours (wedge shaped) so all the information is for them. However not to worry everyone is welcome and I am sure we can still help The engine in your vehicle is called the L series engine and is a very good diesel engine, as such the consumption is much better than the figures above. You should be getting about 45mpg around town, and 55mpg on the motorway.

As for the engine questions I have asked my other half to post up with help. We have a 600 diesel with the same engine in so he knows a fair bit about them.

Double check the boot for leaks, especially around the lights.

actually i have a bit of a skewed boot from when someone shut a coin in the boot, causing a gap, so i shall fix that now.

Not sure which bit you were looking at, but the figures for your vehicle will not be up on the website. The website and club is aimed at the 200MK2 and 400MK1, which is the car before yours (wedge shaped) so all the information is for them. However not to worry everyone is welcome and I am sure we can still help

ahh, hence the pics of the MK1's above, oops. glad i am still welcome though

The engine in your vehicle is called the L series engine and is a very good diesel engine, as such the consumption is much better than the figures above. You should be getting about 45mpg around town, and 55mpg on the motorway.

oh!! well i am only getting around 35mpg for m'ways and 25mpg in town, oh dear. i think it is the fuel and oil filters clogged as they have not been replaced in many years, same with air filter (could these be the cause of excessive fuel consumption), but do the injectors get messy, and does this affect the fuel consumptions, as i would like to get the 45-55mpg!! *laughs*

As for the engine questions I have asked my other half to post up with help. We have a 600 diesel with the same engine in so he knows a fair bit about them.

much appreciated. id love to get the car in tip top perfect condition, and any help would be greatly accepted.

manixman wrote:
1) **FAULT** ABS fault light remains on after ingition. I have been advised this is likely a sensor, though a local garage tells me it could be a large sensor (he quotes 123.50 for these) or a small one (63.50), though he cant tell me which. is this just bull, or are these prices and facts right??

Hmm probably. You can use the sensors from scrapped cars and replace them yourself if you are DIY capable for a lot less money. Check the reluctor rings on the CV joints on the front wheels carefully for cracks. These were a fairly common fault on the 400's. Again a scrap ring or whole CV joint can be substituted rather than a new one if you are on a tight budget.

2) **ANNOYING** car mists up terrible on cold nights, even when car is at temp. i hear this is common, and i have had to buy a demister pad due to the excessive misting that doesnt go away, even with air con and fans on. any tricks of the trade from rover users??

Check for water leaks into the boot. Both saloon and hatch leak around the lights, and the saloon also leaks around the boot seal too if is isn't quite positioned right. Also check that the recirculation slider on the fan works (you should hear a change in fan noise when you slide it from fresh to recirculated air).

3) the fuel filter (and air and oil filters for that matter) have not been replaced since 2001/2002 respectivly, though since that period the car has done just 20,000 miles, how often should they be replaced. (of note is that i dont have service history from 2003 on, but i have MOT history, and as for milage, the car saw 12,500 until 2003, then just 2,200 miles in 04, and in 05, 2,200, and 06, 3,000) so with such low usage, should i replace the filters and do a full service (something id do myself)

Oil should be changed every year or 12,000 miles so it needs changing. The same goes for the air filter too. The fuel filter you can do every other oil change, or even longer.

4) cambelt has not (as far as can be seen from limted SH) been changed, though other websites, and a garage reckon the milage before a change is 84,000-120,000, is this true (my car has just 77, 500 on the odometer atm)

Cam belts need changing on age as well as milage (7 years max I think as the rubber deteriorates). There are two belts on the L series one for the cam and the other on the other end of the engine for the fuel pump.

5) what is the rim width for the rover wheels?? i know my tires are 185/65/14, though i cant use rims from Fords OR a Mazda for example due to differing rim widths (6J on a mazda), though someone told me i can use Honda, and some french cars like peugeot, as long as they are 185/14 and the right rim width, thus what is rim width for rover??

Apart form the width you also need the correct PCD, centre bore and offset. I don't know the last two but the first is 100mmx4.

6) Fuel consumption - i have checked on this website, and found that it is about 26 mpg in town and 46mpg on m'ways, but is there any tricks to improve this, and achieve these figures or much better?? anything i can do, add or replace to get the optimum consumption??

Which model do you have? The non intercooled ones are not as fast or as efficient as the intercooled models. Expect 35-55mpg as a general guide depending on driving style and distances driven. Ironically tuning them to make them go faster can actually improve the fuel consumption too. My 600Di usually gets 40-47mpg.

At this point id love to point out that i have fallen for the Rover already. i have had experience of rovers from when i learned in my brother in laws Rover 220 diesel, and found it a dream to drive. i snapped at the chance to get a rover 420, with a big engine, and it has been well worth the insrance premium increase for such a nice, smooth, and great ride. i love this car!!

If it is a Di (i.e. the intercooled model) then think about fitting a rover-ron tuning box as they are really good and pretty cheap as well. You'll get more power and more drivability and costs about £65 I think.

E_T_V wrote:
Hmm probably. You can use the sensors from scrapped cars and replace them yourself if you are DIY capable for a lot less money. Check the reluctor rings on the CV joints on the front wheels carefully for cracks. These were a fairly common fault on the 400's. Again a scrap ring or whole CV joint can be substituted rather than a new one if you are on a tight budget.

i took it to local guy who deals with Rovers (used to work for Rover for 30years before the Big Layoff) and he hooked it up to diagnositcs, and the ABS light is on constantly, and it has been confirmed the modulator is not working. I took it to a Rover specialist the other day, and he tried to do a diagnostic on the ABS, thinking it was sensor, and it failed to connect. He reckons ABS modulator is gone. Can any modulator from anopther scrap 420di be used, or are the chipped, or coded to only work with one car. Basically i think i can get at it, so can i just replace the modulator, and have ABS back again. ABS is not functioning at all (a nice skid in it the other day confirms this, along with checks by garage). And where would i get a modulator for the ABS for my car from??

Check for water leaks into the boot. Both saloon and hatch leak around the lights, and the saloon also leaks around the boot seal too if is isn't quite positioned right. Also check that the recirculation slider on the fan works (you should hear a change in fan noise when you slide it from fresh to recirculated air).

boot has gap in it due to what seems to be prying open?? this i have tried to knock back in gently, but to no avail. my central vent (big one dead centre of front windscreen that is aimed at the window, doesnt work either, could this be the troubles also??

Oil should be changed every year or 12,000 miles so it needs changing. The same goes for the air filter too. The fuel filter you can do every other oil change, or even longer.

just done the filters today, and it seems as if consumption is a little better, though it needs a good road test, something it will have as on friday i drive the 120 mile to hereford, then the 100 mile to deepest Wales, and back again!!

Cam belts need changing on age as well as milage (7 years max I think as the rubber deteriorates). There are two belts on the L series one for the cam and the other on the other end of the engine for the fuel pump.

this could be expensive. i have been quoted at 450 all in, and 460 all in from the only two garages willing to touch them. can they be done easy enough by a competent DIY mechanic, and how much are parts for them (aware that rover parts can be tricky to look for as many dont stock)

Apart form the width you also need the correct PCD, centre bore and offset. I don't know the last two but the first is 100mmx4.

cheers!! just got two for the rear, so sorted now i knew what the sizes are.

Which model do you have? The non intercooled ones are not as fast or as efficient as the intercooled models. Expect 35-55mpg as a general guide depending on driving style and distances driven. Ironically tuning them to make them go faster can actually improve the fuel consumption too. My 600Di usually gets 40-47mpg.

My model is a '98 2.0L Rover 420di Turbo, so it is a DI Direct Injection/intercooled, am i right??

If it is a Di (i.e. the intercooled model) then think about fitting a rover-ron tuning box as they are really good and pretty cheap as well. You'll get more power and more drivability and costs about £65 I think.

what is the website for the rover_ron parts?? i have heard about these devices, but never knew if they work, or where to get them from. as i said i am certain the car is a 420DI and thus intercooled, so should be ok, though id need to get cambelts done first as they have signs of wear according to the Rover guy i spoke too.

cheer again for loads of help, i know muy car is a little newer than the other models, but it is good that i can ask questions here!!

manixman wrote:i took it to local guy who deals with Rovers (used to work for Rover for 30years before the Big Layoff) and he hooked it up to diagnositcs, and the ABS light is on constantly, and it has been confirmed the modulator is not working. I took it to a Rover specialist the other day, and he tried to do a diagnostic on the ABS, thinking it was sensor, and it failed to connect. He reckons ABS modulator is gone. Can any modulator from anopther scrap 420di be used, or are the chipped, or coded to only work with one car. Basically i think i can get at it, so can i just replace the modulator, and have ABS back again. ABS is not functioning at all (a nice skid in it the other day confirms this, along with checks by garage). And where would i get a modulator for the ABS for my car from??

No the ABS units aren't coded. They are fairly generic so you should be able to pick one up in a scrap yard and fit it yourself relatively cheaply.

boot has gap in it due to what seems to be prying open?? this i have tried to knock back in gently, but to no avail. my central vent (big one dead centre of front windscreen that is aimed at the window, doesnt work either, could this be the troubles also??

I'm not sure to be honest. You'll have to look at the heater mechanism's and make sure all the flaps are moving where they should be.

this could be expensive. i have been quoted at 450 all in, and 460 all in from the only two garages willing to touch them. can they be done easy enough by a competent DIY mechanic, and how much are parts for them (aware that rover parts can be tricky to look for as many dont stock)

Yes it is DIY-able. Just be sure not to lose the injection pump timing (i.e. don't remove the fuel pump pulley) as there is no easy way to get it back. Any good motorfactor will be able to get you the parts to do the job (timing belt kit and tensioners). The parts will be under £100, its the labour that is the expensive thing.

My model is a '98 2.0L Rover 420di Turbo, so it is a DI Direct Injection/intercooled, am i right??

Yup thats right. All L series (the diesel engine in the bubbles) are direct injection. Some were intercooled and some weren't. The better one to have is the intercooled one.

what is the website for the rover_ron parts?? i have heard about these devices, but never knew if they work, or where to get them from. as i said i am certain the car is a 420DI and thus intercooled, so should be ok, though id need to get cambelts done first as they have signs of wear according to the Rover guy i spoke too.

http://tuning-diesels.com/index.htm

Yes they work and yes I'd recommend them (I've got one on my 600Di).
That and a decat can really improve the performance no end.