Rover 200 & 400 Owners Club

dale214 · Post by **dale214** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 12:22 pm

My 214 has not run for a while as it was off the road for a cylinder head change.
Since the work was carried out I cant get it to start.
Before the work was done it started fine. The head is timed up correctly and there is a spark from all plugs.But what I have noticed is the fuel pump is not tuning on and pressurising the injection. Also the electric windows are not working.
I am presuming its a relay somewhere.
Has anyone experienced this before or do's anyone have any ideas.

THANKS.

E_T_V · Post by **E_T_V** » Thu Jan 08, 2015 10:50 am

Check/swap the relay for the fuel pump in the engine bay fusebox. Also check that the inertia switch is pressed down.

As a last resort get someone to hit the fuel tank with a lump of wood whilst you turn the ignition on to see if the fuel pump has stuck for some reason.

Also check that all the earths are connected properly. The one to the slam panel (that the bonnet closes onto) is a common failure.

dale214 · Post by **dale214** » Thu Jan 15, 2015 12:03 pm

Thanks for the advice.
I have checked the relay/earth /and hit the tank whilst turning over but still nothing.
cant find the inertia switch though.?
Electric windows stopped working at the same time but i cant see how they are connected.
All the fuses are intact.

engtmitc · Post by **engtmitc** » Sat Jan 17, 2015 4:57 pm

dale214 wrote:cant find the inertia switch though.?

Take out the ashtray and it is behind that.

dale214 · Post by **dale214** » Thu Oct 01, 2015 10:40 pm

Haven't looked at the car for a while due to other commitment's but have continued where I left off.
The car still wont start.
The locks work on the fob and the immobilizer go's off enabling the car to tern over.
The petrol pump was not pumping so I. hot wired in from a battery.
The pump worked and charged the flow and return.When i tried to start it ( nothing.I pulled the plugs and they were dry.
Also there is no spark so im presuming something is up with the ECU.
The fuel inertia switch is down so in presuming that is not the problem.
Does anyone have any idea as all ive done is work on it since ive bought it and as yet I haven't driven it to enjoy it.
cheers Dale214

Mr Teddy Bear · Post by **Mr Teddy Bear** » Fri Oct 02, 2015 2:34 pm

Did you remove the ECU while doing the head gasket?

I believe that after replacing the ECU the car needs to be adapted via Test Book.

I know this sounds stupid but have you remembered to refit the King Lead? and are the spade connectors tight on the LT to the coil?

itsonlyme · Post by **itsonlyme** » Fri Oct 02, 2015 4:56 pm

are you sure that you timed it correctly, I have seen several people time the cams at TDC unknowingly

dale214 · Post by **dale214** » Sat Oct 03, 2015 4:22 pm

I didn't remove the ECU when replacing the head but i did swop it after when i couldn't get it to start.
It has the original on at the moment .Don't know what the king lead is?.
The wire's to the coil are connected firmly on the right posts.
I don't see how the timing if incorrect would stop the pump working or stop the power to the plugs.?

Thinking of getting someone out to look at it.
Don't know who is best as it's obviously an electrical fault.

Mr Teddy Bear · Post by **Mr Teddy Bear** » Sat Oct 03, 2015 9:49 pm

King lead is the thick H.T lead from the coil to the centre of the distributor; I left it off after having the rad and induction gubins out .

dale214 · Post by **dale214** » Tue Oct 27, 2015 8:00 pm

Thanks to everyone for their advice .
I ended up taking the car to an auto electrician who diagnosed and fixed two earthing problems.
Thankfully the car is now running perfectly and hope to get to a club event in the near future.

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