[harkins77]

Ok so have removed 2 long 10mm bolts that I could see and I've removed the plastic cover off the alternator and removed the electrical connection but I still can't work out how to remove it from the engine. I could really do with some help from anyone close to Thornaby. Not only that I've wheeled the car forward to try and retrieve a ratchet that fell down into the front bumper and now because I've disconnected the battery and the 2 bolts of the alternator I can't get it back on my drive fully and it's now blocking the entrance so I can't get the Zafira off the drive now. I know I'm a numpty but I'm desperate now



I'm hoping someone close by can help me to remove it so that I can try and get it swapped over before all the motor factors close until Monday or at the very least help me remove the alternator and then help me to push it back onto my land.

[harkins77]

I've manged to find an online page for the 8 series haynes manual someone has posted and still no luck. Because of the different types of engines put into the 8 series I'm struggling.

I can only find the 2 bolts. One at the front top left which has been removed and then down the bottom right. Difficult to see because of the water pump hose pipe.

I can't see a 3rd bolt no matter what I do and I also can't see where the 15mm bolt is to release the tension on the belt.

I have removed the rear cover on the alternator and disconnected the electrics. I've managed to get the car back on the drive after calling on a family member to come and give me a quick hand but I'm still no further forward to getting the alternator off. I know it's probably something really silly but I just can't see it.

[mach1rob]

OK I'm going from memory, but if it's a really long bolt you've removed from the bottom, and it's unbolted at the top then it's probably just stuck, quite often it's a tight fit, try wedging a crowbar or similar in to help persuade it out.

If you get horribly stuck, and just to move the car, wrap the alternator connections with tape to make sure there's no exposed metal, replace the battery and move the car, disconnect the battery again, unorthodox, but may get you out the mire without putting your back out.



There is usually 1 bolt in the top hole, then a long bolt that goes through both lower holes, double check tho, as sometimes there are 2 smaller ones

[mach1rob]

Not a good photo I'm afraid



The tensioner for the alternator is the small pulley you can make out in the middle of the 2 bigger pulleys

[mach1rob]

Ignore that, have just dragged the Haynes 800 manual out



It's not an auto tensioner, or at least shouldn't be

Slacken bolt 3 on idler pulley, then there should be a second bolt 4 which you tighten/loosen to adjust the tension.

All it says for alternator removal is

1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove aux belt as described above
3. Undo the 2 nuts and remove rear cover
4. Disconnect the leads from rear
5. Undo upper and lower mounting bolts and remove alternator.
6. Refitting is a reversal of removal.

[E_T_V]

Have you removed the belt yet?

If so you can move the car a short distance (so long as you tape up the electrical connection well to avoid it touching anything metal)

There are usually either two long bolts (or two short ones and a long one) to secure the alternator. The ones underneath may be difficult to spot.

If you can post up a picture I'm sure that'd help identify what you've got left to remove.

[harkins77]

The picture below shows the locations that I've been able to remove the 2 10 mm bolts that are approx 2 inches in length.

LAND-ROVER-ALTERNATOR-OE-0986044761.jpg

There is possibly the one that is at the bottom of the alternator on the side of the wheel arch that I will need to remove the wheel arch lining but it's really started tipping it down now and I'm getting angry with trying to locate this nut.

I have put some pressure on the alternator and I am able to move it forward I'm assuming with the one remaining bolt pivoting the alternator on it's axis.

I haven't been able to get the belt off due to it being really tight on and that could have been the reason the bearings failed as there is no slack on it so that I can even lift it a little.

[harkins77]

Ignore that, have just dragged the Haynes 800 manual out



It's not an auto tensioner, or at least shouldn't be

Slacken bolt 3 on idler pulley, then there should be a second bolt 4 which you tighten/loosen to adjust the tension.

All it says for alternator removal is

1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove aux belt as described above
3. Undo the 2 nuts and remove rear cover
4. Disconnect the leads from rear
5. Undo upper and lower mounting bolts and remove alternator.
6. Refitting is a reversal of removal.

I know it's not really helpful having bolt number 4 in the location it is as it looks like you access it from under the car. As for bolt 3 I still think I need to access it by removing the wheel and then removing the wheel arch lining as the chassis gives no clearance to be able to run anything down between the side of the chassis rails and the pully's due to lack of space.

[harkins77]

Just popped out in between the hailstones and very heavy rain to take these pics as requested. Sorry about the quality but they were taken with my phone.

This one was taken showing the top left bolt removed and the green wire is something else I'm going to have to fix as I caught it when trying to move the alternator.



This 2nd one shows just how much clearance there actually is. Looking at it even to get to 2nd from the bottom pully which is the shiny one you can see in the middle as the chassis frame is blocking access to it



And finally the 3rd is showing where the 10mm 2 inch long bolt was located on the bottom right of the alternator.



I hope this shows how bad it is to get to.

[E_T_V]

Ok so it is a manual tensioner. Wind the tension off and remove the belt

Then rotate the alternator forward on the remaining bolt to give better access. With the belt off then access will be better as you can get a ratchet onto the bolt without the belt on I think,.