UPDATE:
Still had no luck in deactivating the alarm, with any of the methods.
Prior to battery going flat, I used the remote key fob to unlock and had never needed to use the ignition key to open the doors, so ever since this flat battery incident, having recharged battery and reconnected, the alarm tripped in straight away as soon as connected the last -ve terminal, and the alarm failed to deactivate even with the key fob.
I now have to use the ignition key to gain access, but i also found that simply turning the key to unlock pops up the driver's side door lock button but the other 3 doors Central Locking does not work, and even the drivers door opens with sort of mechanical movement by direct action through the key and not by electrical solenoid, as don't hear any longer the usual CH motor or solenoid noise any longer.
To be completed as I am needed to go somewhere I will come back to finish.
Another Alarm/immobiliser problem Rover 216
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RoverRevival
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Re: Another Alarm/immobiliser problem Rover 214
1234dist wrote:go through the members section and send a message to bobbybrown. He'll be able to program you a fob and get your eak code for you.
Re: Another Alarm/immobiliser problem Rover 214
You haven't told us the vintage of your car. Anti-theft devices were evolving quite quickly during the R8 run. Fwiw, I've just read through my copy of the 200 Series Owner's Handbook, AKM7045. It says 4th edition on the cover, but 3rd edition 1993 on the fly leaf. It makes no mention of the EKA code at all and all mentions of the IR handset ("fob") are astesked "not necessarily fitted to every model".
This implies that at this time, there was no engine imobilisation circuit, just an intruder alarm. Could be one less thing for you to chase down?
This implies that at this time, there was no engine imobilisation circuit, just an intruder alarm. Could be one less thing for you to chase down?
Re: Another Alarm/immobiliser problem Rover 214
1. Thanks Crapello, for your information. Yes it is definitely a wireless Remote alarm system. My RF field tester I have for use in my job detects it good and strong. The car is definitely a 1995 M reg, 16v Honda engine. and it is Automatic.
2. Today I did a lot of tracing work on wiring using Haynes Manual and actual wiring colours inside the front driver's door.
The colours match those shown in Haynes Manual.
3. What Haynes Manual does not show is the Alarm Module (most likely location behind the front passenger glove box compartment.
4. I managed to get to the horn which is located Front Driver's side behind the Head Light (which was a flowery hanging basket of a a job to get out) but managed to damage the headlight front glass just fell out and cracked in half! the front lense just came off its seal. I will probably need a new headlight Driver's side.
5. After disconnecting Horn, it then became clear as I could hear Horn Relay tick-tack behind the front passenger glove box.
6. Red light indicating Alarm Active flashes when all doors are closed and remains steady when a door is open, after 20 or so seconds the relay tick tack stops, (which causes the horn to sound)
7. on opening any door the relay starts to tick tack again for another 20 or so seconds.
8.No amount of fobbing around with remote fob does anything,
9. Door Lock key does nothing at all apart from opening the front driver's door lock manually, no electrical response what so ever.
10. The microswitch in the door lock operated by a cam works absolutely fine, tested twice, so it functions OK, makes contacts and breaks contacts.
center position contacts are open, and position either side of center contacts are made, i.e. shorted out.
But no amount of making or breaking contacts does anything (Likely cause could be a break in the wire typically in the wiring loom that leaves the door and enters into the front pillar, I have had cars before where wires have snapped inside this location as there is lot of cable flexing when you open and shut doors, and it is a weak spot, but I have not managed to check for any wires snapped inside this loom, that will be my next fault finding
step, but i might also measure voltage across each wire to this door lock microswitch to see what readings I am getting when the key is turned from center position to either side) (should get 12v edited as latest available information and observation when key is in upright center position)
11. I then managed to trace a small loom leading to door locking motor, (drivers door) this motor and wiring is not shown in Haynes manual, as it shows just wiring to 3 other doors! but does not show driver's door, but i guessing this motor locking is same as all other 3 doors and has a Pink and orange wires, so no voltage on it but motor reads around 17ohms, I disconnected wiring plug, and applied 12v direct to motor terminals and could hear whirring noise and the lock popped in and out as I reversed motor polarity) so this works.
12. Here is the Central Locking Switch (Driver's locking motor operates this switch) with 3 wires, one being ground wire (Black) and the other being Black with pink marker, and third being black with orange marker, so again i checked its status, when door lock is open manually by the key, as the motor is not operating or none of C.L. is operating at the moment, the switch is making a contact with black and black/pink (locking)
13. I removed the plug from the motor and switch and took a jumper wire and bridged black with black/orange, and door locks popped out, so all 3 door locks popped out, the driver's door wouldn't as the plug is disconnected, but if it was plugged in it would also open as it once did when it worked
prior to battery going flat.
14. So i tried switching ground (black wire) between two other positions i.e. lock and unlock, the response was not immediate and erratic, and often didn't do anything, so it seems that the ALARM MODULE may have gone wrong as well, as it is not responding to my bridging the switch contacts between locking and unlocking. now this is crucial as it should work perfectly in response to my bridging in order to enter EKA code.
(Edited, if a wire is broken in the loom, this will not allow the alarm module to function as normal and may lead you to wrong diagnostic, as I have now managed to get the car going and it was a broken wire on this switch as well)
15. However EKA code is only essential to remove engine immobiliser, this may not be necessary as first of all the Alarm itself is not responding to key fob, which may have gone well out of sync. But so far because the driver's door microswitch making or breaking contacts does nothing, hence I guess the sync will not work until I have checked that door wire loom for any cables breakages inside the door.
I spent nearly 5 hours diagnosing and getting to the horn and studying the circuit operation from haynes manual.
(Where best to get the RH Headlight? as during removal the front glass lense just decided to come off the glue and fell on the road and broke in half! when I was trying to get behind it to remove the horn wires)
2. Today I did a lot of tracing work on wiring using Haynes Manual and actual wiring colours inside the front driver's door.
The colours match those shown in Haynes Manual.
3. What Haynes Manual does not show is the Alarm Module (most likely location behind the front passenger glove box compartment.
4. I managed to get to the horn which is located Front Driver's side behind the Head Light (which was a flowery hanging basket of a a job to get out) but managed to damage the headlight front glass just fell out and cracked in half! the front lense just came off its seal. I will probably need a new headlight Driver's side.
5. After disconnecting Horn, it then became clear as I could hear Horn Relay tick-tack behind the front passenger glove box.
6. Red light indicating Alarm Active flashes when all doors are closed and remains steady when a door is open, after 20 or so seconds the relay tick tack stops, (which causes the horn to sound)
7. on opening any door the relay starts to tick tack again for another 20 or so seconds.
8.No amount of fobbing around with remote fob does anything,
9. Door Lock key does nothing at all apart from opening the front driver's door lock manually, no electrical response what so ever.
10. The microswitch in the door lock operated by a cam works absolutely fine, tested twice, so it functions OK, makes contacts and breaks contacts.
center position contacts are open, and position either side of center contacts are made, i.e. shorted out.
But no amount of making or breaking contacts does anything (Likely cause could be a break in the wire typically in the wiring loom that leaves the door and enters into the front pillar, I have had cars before where wires have snapped inside this location as there is lot of cable flexing when you open and shut doors, and it is a weak spot, but I have not managed to check for any wires snapped inside this loom, that will be my next fault finding
step, but i might also measure voltage across each wire to this door lock microswitch to see what readings I am getting when the key is turned from center position to either side) (should get 12v edited as latest available information and observation when key is in upright center position)
11. I then managed to trace a small loom leading to door locking motor, (drivers door) this motor and wiring is not shown in Haynes manual, as it shows just wiring to 3 other doors! but does not show driver's door, but i guessing this motor locking is same as all other 3 doors and has a Pink and orange wires, so no voltage on it but motor reads around 17ohms, I disconnected wiring plug, and applied 12v direct to motor terminals and could hear whirring noise and the lock popped in and out as I reversed motor polarity) so this works.
12. Here is the Central Locking Switch (Driver's locking motor operates this switch) with 3 wires, one being ground wire (Black) and the other being Black with pink marker, and third being black with orange marker, so again i checked its status, when door lock is open manually by the key, as the motor is not operating or none of C.L. is operating at the moment, the switch is making a contact with black and black/pink (locking)
13. I removed the plug from the motor and switch and took a jumper wire and bridged black with black/orange, and door locks popped out, so all 3 door locks popped out, the driver's door wouldn't as the plug is disconnected, but if it was plugged in it would also open as it once did when it worked
prior to battery going flat.
14. So i tried switching ground (black wire) between two other positions i.e. lock and unlock, the response was not immediate and erratic, and often didn't do anything, so it seems that the ALARM MODULE may have gone wrong as well, as it is not responding to my bridging the switch contacts between locking and unlocking. now this is crucial as it should work perfectly in response to my bridging in order to enter EKA code.
(Edited, if a wire is broken in the loom, this will not allow the alarm module to function as normal and may lead you to wrong diagnostic, as I have now managed to get the car going and it was a broken wire on this switch as well)
15. However EKA code is only essential to remove engine immobiliser, this may not be necessary as first of all the Alarm itself is not responding to key fob, which may have gone well out of sync. But so far because the driver's door microswitch making or breaking contacts does nothing, hence I guess the sync will not work until I have checked that door wire loom for any cables breakages inside the door.
I spent nearly 5 hours diagnosing and getting to the horn and studying the circuit operation from haynes manual.
(Where best to get the RH Headlight? as during removal the front glass lense just decided to come off the glue and fell on the road and broke in half! when I was trying to get behind it to remove the horn wires)
Last edited by new2rover on Thu Nov 24, 2016 10:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Another Alarm/immobiliser problem Rover 214
This is the verdict I have reached:
1. Since I have never used the ignition key to open or lock doors, and only used the key fob, which worked very well until the battery died.
2. Then during all this time the wires going to the door lock barrel micro switch must have snapped in the door loom due to constant flexing by opening and closing of the door - I strongly suspect this as the prime faulty now.
3. This is the reason when i open the door with the key lock the switch operates but cables are damaged or snapped along the line somewhere between the Alarm Module and the microswitch
4. Due to battery having gone flat for days, the Alarm Receiver lost its Synchronisation with the Fob, hence the fob does not respond any longer.
5. In order to re-sync the fob, you need the door microswitch to work properly or the sync process may not function properly. This is the reason all attempt at re-syncing the fob failed, including disarming the immobiliser since that would require the door key to enter the code.
6.Almost everywhere I have read says unlock the door (meaning with the key, and if the door microswitch is not functioning due to broken wiring) then the Alarm Module doesn't know if the door is open. (even if the door is opened by the direct mechanical action of the ignition key)
7. So hopefully I will be able to now sort this problem out sooner now. Thanks for all the help you guys have provided and I will come back to feedback how it all went. cheers :
1. Since I have never used the ignition key to open or lock doors, and only used the key fob, which worked very well until the battery died.
2. Then during all this time the wires going to the door lock barrel micro switch must have snapped in the door loom due to constant flexing by opening and closing of the door - I strongly suspect this as the prime faulty now.
3. This is the reason when i open the door with the key lock the switch operates but cables are damaged or snapped along the line somewhere between the Alarm Module and the microswitch
4. Due to battery having gone flat for days, the Alarm Receiver lost its Synchronisation with the Fob, hence the fob does not respond any longer.
5. In order to re-sync the fob, you need the door microswitch to work properly or the sync process may not function properly. This is the reason all attempt at re-syncing the fob failed, including disarming the immobiliser since that would require the door key to enter the code.
6.Almost everywhere I have read says unlock the door (meaning with the key, and if the door microswitch is not functioning due to broken wiring) then the Alarm Module doesn't know if the door is open. (even if the door is opened by the direct mechanical action of the ignition key)
7. So hopefully I will be able to now sort this problem out sooner now. Thanks for all the help you guys have provided and I will come back to feedback how it all went. cheers :
Re: Another Alarm/immobiliser problem Rover 214
Wow, this is impressive stuff! 
Broken cables are a pain but do start to occur on older cars. They are almost a given on the body-to-bottled harness on coupes....
If you need assistance with re-syncing, Booby Brown is v helpful. He's in Tamworth but also provides a postal service. I've got a mobile number for him. PM me if you need it.
Broken cables are a pain but do start to occur on older cars. They are almost a given on the body-to-bottled harness on coupes....
If you need assistance with re-syncing, Booby Brown is v helpful. He's in Tamworth but also provides a postal service. I've got a mobile number for him. PM me if you need it.
I like Twin Cams.... and Single Cams...and now Turbos
Re: Another Alarm/immobiliser problem Rover 214
Very thorough!
The only wires I have in my body-door loom are 2 for speakers, but even with that reduction in risk I suffered a fracture. A real pain to repair, as the tail coming out of the A-pillar is integral with the whole body harness. Would have been so much easier with a connector on each end so the whole thing could be taken off and fixed on a bench. I noticed when stripping the wire for soldering that cutting the insulation was un-necessary, as it was so brittle it would just snap when flexed!
Is there a list of connector insert part numbers anywhere? They're probably AMP, but that's a huge range.
The only wires I have in my body-door loom are 2 for speakers, but even with that reduction in risk I suffered a fracture. A real pain to repair, as the tail coming out of the A-pillar is integral with the whole body harness. Would have been so much easier with a connector on each end so the whole thing could be taken off and fixed on a bench. I noticed when stripping the wire for soldering that cutting the insulation was un-necessary, as it was so brittle it would just snap when flexed!
Is there a list of connector insert part numbers anywhere? They're probably AMP, but that's a huge range.
Re: Another Alarm/immobiliser problem Rover 214
Thanks GTiJohn, if need be I will PM you for his number, I did not manage to get anything done today as I had to work late, and just got back an hour ago. Tomorrow hopefully I will be able to confirm any broken wires, I remember having to solder lots of broken wires on a mate's car and another one where a rat had got into a car and it chewed wires everywhere, I suppose he had nothing else to eat, but PVC!
Re: Another Alarm/immobiliser problem Rover 214
UPDATE:
Thank Heavens, managed to get it going today, I started with the door loom, removed the rubber grommet from the door and withdrew the rubber flexible sleeving and manipulated the wires i.e. tugging on wires, in particularly the thin blk/red wire from the door microswitch, and a thin black wire, both of which are responsible for making contact with the microswitch, tugging on these wires to see if any may snap or appears to be broken inside the pvc insulation covering wires, a weak spot can be thus be revealed.
Strangely nothing appeared to be broken wire or conductors from the feel, so I really don't know if there was a problem and by manipulating the loom it may have temporarily made a good contact, and so all of a sudden I am seeing 12v across the microswitch when I turn the door key lock to one side or another the voltage goes goes to zero, which now indicated that there is a 12v getting through the alarm circuit and into the switch but when contacts are closed the 12v collapses to zero.
Then I shut the door and unlocked the door with the key, and pressed 5 times on one of the buttons, this magically re-synchronised the fob with the alarm module and all central locking and so on started to work perfectly, I then managed to re-sync the second set of spare keys as well, by doing the same thing,.
So conclusion I reached is that as suspected the fault was definitely in the wiring between the microswitch and the door loom, and by manipulating it I must have made broken wire making contact again and managed to do synchronizing. There was no need for EKA code or anything like that as Alarm now sets and can be deactivated using keyfob, engine started OK and I am back motoring now.
thanks for everyone's effort in suggesting various tricks. Thanks all.
I am going to glue back using a bead of silicone and stick back headlight glass cover/lense, though it has a cracked in two, and I used super glue to join it together, I will need a new one at some stage, as I am sure this may be MOT fail if the front glass is cracked. I will check my local breakers if I can get from there, if not I will need to post for one in wanted section.
Big thanks to you all.
Thank Heavens, managed to get it going today, I started with the door loom, removed the rubber grommet from the door and withdrew the rubber flexible sleeving and manipulated the wires i.e. tugging on wires, in particularly the thin blk/red wire from the door microswitch, and a thin black wire, both of which are responsible for making contact with the microswitch, tugging on these wires to see if any may snap or appears to be broken inside the pvc insulation covering wires, a weak spot can be thus be revealed.
Strangely nothing appeared to be broken wire or conductors from the feel, so I really don't know if there was a problem and by manipulating the loom it may have temporarily made a good contact, and so all of a sudden I am seeing 12v across the microswitch when I turn the door key lock to one side or another the voltage goes goes to zero, which now indicated that there is a 12v getting through the alarm circuit and into the switch but when contacts are closed the 12v collapses to zero.
Then I shut the door and unlocked the door with the key, and pressed 5 times on one of the buttons, this magically re-synchronised the fob with the alarm module and all central locking and so on started to work perfectly, I then managed to re-sync the second set of spare keys as well, by doing the same thing,.
So conclusion I reached is that as suspected the fault was definitely in the wiring between the microswitch and the door loom, and by manipulating it I must have made broken wire making contact again and managed to do synchronizing. There was no need for EKA code or anything like that as Alarm now sets and can be deactivated using keyfob, engine started OK and I am back motoring now.
thanks for everyone's effort in suggesting various tricks. Thanks all.
I am going to glue back using a bead of silicone and stick back headlight glass cover/lense, though it has a cracked in two, and I used super glue to join it together, I will need a new one at some stage, as I am sure this may be MOT fail if the front glass is cracked. I will check my local breakers if I can get from there, if not I will need to post for one in wanted section.
Big thanks to you all.
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220 GSi turbo
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Re: Another Alarm/immobiliser problem Rover 214
That's why we are herenew2rover wrote:
Big thanks to you all.
And you posting your results will probably help somebody else in the future
